11 Jan 2018
We visited the remote island of Tokelau with a small group of scientists, curators and media creators. We were headed there to learn about the culture, the land and its people. On the ship we were aboard, there were supplies to bring with us and to give to the locals and passengers as well. During our conversations with some of the other young passengers indicated that they were returning home for Christmas from Fiji, where they were studying for the University of the South Pacific. During the trip on the ship, it impresses me how some people get to shower in a boat, constantly rocking back and forth. And how they manage to get a hot drink from a teapot into a cup with no problem whatsoever is baffling just as much. After a good 24 hours or more, we see the low-lying atolls of Tokelau. Just staring at it strikes me about how vulnerable the islands and people are.
It’s hard to imagine how well they would fare against the ever so rising sea levels, considering the highest point in the island is only a few metres above sea level. During the low tide, you could see the protective seawall, that, although small, provides a bit of safety from the ocean. Despite being geographically isolated and their vulnerability against the sea, they are sufficiently developed villages hosting even hospitals and a large school somewhere in another island.
The townspeople were warm and hospitable but shy at first. Eventually, they warmed up to the tourists and they became keen to share their stories with us. Their solar power station has kept the entire place up and running for a long time, and thanks to the deliveries before, they’re building a municipal building with the development of some houses with televisions, computers and fridges. And everything seems pretty steady and well-run.
But that won’t stop the problems of the future. When we met a teacher in a primary school, she said that they’re talking about the future they believe in and expect. Like most places, they seem different through a postcard than actually visiting the place. Their seawall helps, but it is only a temporary solution against an insurmountable problem. However, a sign on the side of a building gives us a message, a message we must hear: a clean environment is the only way to survive.
After the study, we returned back to our homes, in the comfort of our family’s embrace and the warmth of our home. That was a very interesting experience, I hope to visit that country again soon.
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